Whilst corn snakes are one of the easiest species to keep in captivity, they can live for 20-25 years and can grow 4-6 feet in length. They eat defrosted mice, are very docile and have relatively simple requirements making them quite an easy-to-care-for pet. They are available in many colours/patterns (morphs) and we hope you enjoy the one/s you’ve chosen!!

As with any pet/hobby, there is much to read/learn but I have tried to make this care sheet as simple as possible by condensing much of what is available on the Internet & from personal experience.

Housing – simple plastic boxes to expensive vivariums

It is best to keep hatchlings and young corns singly in plastic boxes, with air holes. The boxes can be heated up to 1/3 of the base with heat mats but the snake must be able to access cooler areas to prevent over-heating. Adult corn snakes can be kept in larger plastic boxes – like those used for under-bed storage - or they can live in purpose built cages called vivariums. The recommended (minimum) size for a single adult is approx 3'x18"x18" – or larger………………but always ensure there are air holes and well-fitting lids for your budding Houdini!!

Hatchling corns should ideally NOT be housed together just in case one eats the other! Keeping them separate also reduces the possibility of any cross-infection and/or breeding before the female’s body is mature enough to cope with the strain of producing eggs. You will also be able to check that your corn has eaten, shed and defecated normally – impossible to do if you have 2/3 together!!!

Heating – via heat mats
The simplest method of heating plastic boxes is via a heat mat (available in various sizes) placed under 1 end of the box (approx 1/3) & controlled by a thermostat set at 82-85 F. This will provide the necessary ‘hot spot’ whilst the other end should be around 70-72 F. Because snakes are cold-blooded, the snake will then move to the right area when it feels the need.

If you choose to use a heatmat inside an enclosure, make sure it’s covered & sealed to prevent the snake and/or moisture making contact with it– this can lead to electrical faults and probably the electrocution of your pet.

Lighting
Corn snakes do not need UV light or any other form of light

Substrate
I use kitchen roll for hatchling/youngsters and then ‘chip-shop’ plain paper for adults. This allows for very easy cleaning and the snakes love hiding under it too! Other substrates are readily available put pine should be avoided because it becomes acidic when wet. If you use anything other than paper, please ensure you feed your snake elsewhere – to avoid the snake ingesting anything other than the food.

Décor
Snakes aren’t really too bothered but décor can look nice – as long as you remember to keep it clean etc. However a hide – commercial or simple loo roll – provides somewhere to retreat after feeding…..although mine usually prefer to simply slither under their water bowl!!

Water
As with all animals, fresh water should be made available at all times. Snakes aren’t bothered what the water container looks like – it could be a commercial reptile bowl or a little hamster dish for hatchlings and plastic dog bowl for adults etc. Whatever you choose, clean & sterilise it regularly to prevent the build up of bacteria etc. Snakes often like to soak in the water bowl to cool down and/or aid shedding, so make sure it’s large enough for this.

If you’re not sure about the quality of your tap water, please use bottled or cooled boiled water rather than risking any localised chlorine/chemicals

Feeding
Corn snakes are very simple to feed. Baby snakes feed on defrosted baby mice (pinkies) and adult snakes feed on adult mice or small rats. Live food should not be used. You only need to feed the snake once a week – on the right size of rodent - no larger than 1.5x the girth of the snake at its widest part - it should leave a small bump in the snake but nothing major.

Frozen rodents can be bought fairly cheaply from most reptile supply shops – check your Yellow Pages and/or the Internet for what’s in your area. Depending on how many snakes you have, it might pay you to buy in bulk for even better value. As with human food, ensure that the frozen mice are thoroughly defrosted before you feed the snakes.

I prefer to use reptile tongs to avoid any human smell being transferred – this might also help ‘teach’ the snake that hands used for cleaning/handling are ‘safe’ and not food!!! I usually dangle the mouse on the tongs to encourage the snake to strike - much more natural than just leaving the dead mouse on the cage floor but, if it doesn’t want to strike, I just drop it. Once the food has been given leave your snake to eat in peace.

Regardless of size, don’t handle your snake for 2 to 3 days after feeding to allow digestion to take place. Handling too soon after feeding may result in regurgitation

Cleaning
Basically clean each time you see that your snake has passed anything. Remove the waste & substrate and clean with washing up liquid &/or with a bit of bleach added or a commercial clear pet spray – ‘F10’ or ‘Trigene’ are 2 of the better ones. Never use ‘Milton’ or ‘Dettol’ types - any liquid that goes white when mixed with water are thought to be harmful to snakes.

Hygiene
Captive-bred corn snakes present little, if any, risk of infection to healthy humans. However, as all reptiles carry bacteria in their digestive tract, basic hygiene practices should avoid any problems – ie wash hands after handling. Anyone with any immune system issue eg young children, the elderly, HIV or AIDS sufferers etc should refrain from handling any reptiles. Readily available disinfectant hand-gels should also be regularly applied if handling/cleaning out a number of snakes to prevent any possible cross-contamination/infection

Sloughing/shedding
Snakes never stop growing so they never stop moulting (shedding) but younger snakes shed more often than older ones - every few weeks compared to every few months.

The first sign that a snake is going to shed is a dulling down of it’s skin with a slightly greyer appearance & the eyes will go a milky (often ‘blue’) colour. A rough surface for rubbing against can aid shedding - a rock, entrance to a hide, a rough piece of wood, etc. From the eyes going milky to the snake actually shedding can take anything from 3-12 days.